Day 9 - Puketī Forest to Stone Store Kerikeri

An earlier start to the day and away by 7.30.

A couple of k’s down the forestry road and a clear Te Araroa Trail sign points the way down through farmland. ‘Caution’ it says. ‘You are entering a working farm with electric fences and bulls.’ Let’s hope they like harmonica playing and imitation moans and bellows from Karl, just to see if he can get a response.

The trail weaves its way through scenic spots of scrub and bush, streams, waterfalls and boardwalks. Paradise ducks circle with their distinctive calls. One honking what sounds like “wait” and its partner a deep sounding “go!”

We begin the Kerikeri Riverwalk trail at Rainbow Falls. People a swinging in the lagoon. Karl washes his face in the shallows. I take my turn where he was, only to see a broad silvery tail curl away and move under the embankment. The swimmers mustn’t mind eels.

After cleaning and squirting boot disinfectant at a Kauri Dieback booth, we were awed by the beauty of this track alongside the river. Mature tōtara trees and lush grass paved the spaces between river and backyard properties.

As we emerged near the carpark opposite to the stone store a familiar voice called out. Sandie was waiting to welcome us. 

She also had pies :)

After a visit to the stone store and a few snapshots I placed my trustee walking stick companion in a nearby flax bush. Ready to continue the journey on or about the 5th of January.

Today we had covered a distance of 26k. A total trail length of about 225k in the last 9 days.

We have learnt a number of things that will help us with future sections. We have pride in the fact that we have walked it all, even though there had been a number of genuine offers to give us a lift.

We look forward to the continued journey of walking the length of New Zealand in the New Year and all the adventures yet to be.

Day 8 - Rangiahua to Puketi Forest Campground

A lovely time was spent for Christmas at Otamure; Sandie, Karl and I. Our motorhome shifted from Kerikeri NZMCA park to the DoC Otamure site. 

Beachside under flowering pohutakawa trees. We even had turkey on the BBQ. Reminds me of the verses in the Hi 5 song - ‘Santa wear your shorts’.

On return to the exact spot we left was a solid hour and a half drive in the x-trail. The hiking sticks still leaning on the fence post.

After farewells, we began the next segment of 8km along Highway 1 before reaching the Puketi Rd turnoff.

We had already received an offer of a lift by a local, which was really kind and considerate.

We politely declined as when all is said and done we want to be able to say whole heartedly we walked the length of NZ. (Apart from obvious water crossing parts!)

The Puketi Rd climbed steadily to a plateau. The weather deteriorated and we donned on our jackets to keep us warmer and drier.

After 13km we met the point where the TA trail emerged from the forest. A couple of k’s backtrack and we were at the DoC campsite.

With plenty of time before darkness we had a great feed - roast chicken and mash, a Back Country feed (thanks Tahere family).

Day 7 - Makene Rd to Rangiahua

The seventh day.

A roadwalking day today. 

Last night was the most morepork (Ruru) calling I think I’ve ever heard. Half a dozen were all kicking off at once. Both lovely and annoying.

Upon leaving Makene Rd, going left towards the north was a closed State Highway 1 due to huge slips in the Mangamuka Gorge. Thankfully we were heading south. The traffic was understandably low with only 2 vehicles passing by in the first 10 minutes. You don’t get that often on NZ’s main route through the entire country.

We happened to find a roadside rugby ball and gave kicks down the highway.

Oh dear, no steak and cheese pies from the Mangamuka dairy, because… it’s closed. On a Saturday too!

The decision was made in order to be accessible for Sandie to pick us up for Christmas we wouldn’t head inland through the Puketī forest. Instead we would take the Puketi Rd which bypasses the forest and meets the trail at kilometre 200. 

So, Sandie picked us up off State Highway 1 at the Waihou River crossing near Rangiahua. We placed our walking poles against a strainer post and would return to the exact same spot on Boxing Day.

We had achieved a 21 kilometre road walk for the day.

Day 6 - Takahue Hall to Makene Rd

An overcast morning and we are up and packed by 7am. The light of day brings clarity around last nights arrival site. With an ashfelt court area, toilet block and an entrance way, typical of an old school site. Sure enough as we caught up with hosts Ethan and Connor from last night, Ethan explained how it once was Takahue Native School and his grandmother had been a teacher here. We chatted for a while, provided a koha, bidded our hosts farewell and headed out on the road again through the now less used turnstile. The Takahue Hall stood proudly on the adjacent corner at the road intersection.

Onwards and upwards the metal road took us. We passed ‘Krishna Sanctuary’ which was a property graced with many fruit trees. We paused to admire a lovely bunch of green bananas dangling like thick fingers from under tropical glossy leaves.

This place was a paradise in nature!

Tiny homes with an off grid appearance came next. What appeared to be abandoned boats, cars and tractors all trail side and tucked in the bush. 

Around another corner and a festival of oriental flags were on display. 

We caught up with Yumi, another trail walker. She couldn’t believe we’d walked the road from Ahipara the previous day, which equated to a 35km distance.

Breakfast was a cook up perched on a small campsite in the bush overlooking the valley. Yumi continued.

By 10.30 we were fed and rested, ready to cross the Mangamuka Range.

The trail turned off its 4WD width and narrowed upwards over exposed tree roots and patches of thick mud. Some spots took some negotiating to get across or around. We had to make like Tarzan and swing by tree branches or vines to cross the trickiest parts.

On reaching the summit at 740 metres ( one of the highest points in Northland ) we were disappointed that cloud masked all views. Light rain fell constantly and the wind came in gusts.

Eventually, after hours of toil, we reached farmland on the other side of the range. A blare came from the bush edge and it was clearly a bull making its presence known. Karl gave his own groaning reply to which I said “it’s in the paddock we’re in, so how fast can you run?”

Nothing more came of it and soon we were passing by the farmers house following the orange triangle markers. Dogs barked continuously until we were well down Makene Rd. There we were so grateful to have a patch to pitch our tent.

Light rain continued to fall as darkness came.

We were so drained of energy we skipped dinner and went straight to bed.

Day 5 - Ahipara to Takahue

Time spent cooking breakfast in the kitchen of a YHA and you soon make a connection with someone. A family were doing a cook-up of pink oyster mushrooms and with a few open questions it was revealed they were from Hamilton.

With kai time done and every tent peg accounted for ( so far lost one gained one) we trapsed out the long driveway and towards the road leading out of Ahipara. 

A mural adorned a large fence and it told the story about how Ahipara came to have its name. 

Two tribes at war. A leader rises. Leader passes on. A rāhui (ban) placed on all sea life gathering for a year, the rāhui lifted after a year and a great feast occuring. Fire (ahi), to roast (parapara) the seafood, hence - ‘Ahipara’.

This would be our first section of roadside walking. Kaitaia was 6k away. We caught up to Yumi a couple of kilometres out of town. She was getting a lift to Kaitaia. We had made the firm decision we wanted to stay genuine to the walk of NZ. Any of the 5 times someone stopped that day (bless them) we politely declined and stated our ‘why.’

In the business of pre-Christmas Kaitaia we sat at Subway for a well earned rest and feed.

Unfortunately, to restock at a supermarket we had a 2km walk through town (so 4K extra added to our walking day).

Anyhow, supplies purchased. A visit to the incredible Kaitaia library. The carved poles in the foyer of the library representing the various settlers to the area. The murals and structures within the library are something to behold!

By 7.30 we were 8k out of Kaitaia and heading towards the Raetea Forest region. By 11pm we were still walking and wondered if we’d ever reach the campsite according to the map!

After a few wide eyed moments from dogs cranking off at us and possums rustling and squawking, we heard a voice ask if we were ok. “Not fully” we admitted.

After friendly welcomings and guidance to a flat grassed lawn area, we pitched our tent etc in record time and were soon drifting off. Tiredness trumps the need for dinner.

Day 4 - Hukatere to Ahipara

20 December ‘23

The whine of mosquitos outside the tent was incredible last night. Thankfully, they stayed out and we stayed in!

As we eased our bodies into action and over to the reception / kitchen area, Yumi from the Taranaki and KC from West Auckland were already in breakfast mode.

Yumi is a section walker and has been doing parts of the Te Araroa over the past 3 years.

KC was tramping the section through to Auckland. KC confessed to not realising that yesterdays walk had created a blister on her pinky toe. It was only when she removed the sock last night that there came the shock for her, of a monster red blister, on her left pinky toe.

Following the morning feed and farewells it was an easy stroll through the sand dunes and out onto ninety mile beach. 

Weather was again in our favour, with a pleasant head breeze and an overcast sky. Thirty kilometres later and were approaching the beachside settlement of Ahipara. Vehicles were far more prevalent at this southern end of the beach and we witnessed two bus loads of tourists cruise by, along with a multitude of 4WD jeeps, utes and quad bikes.

Ahipara was like walking into an oasis. The sky was clearer and the sun was sizzling anything and everything. We were glad to find our way to the YHA hostel nestled amongst bamboo hedgerows and tropical banana styled plant life.

After the tent was pitched we enjoyed a Wellingtonian apa beer at the bar. We quickly recoiled enough energy and motivation to walk the 1.2k to the local fish’n’chip shop named “Bidz”.

It’s been great to hear Karl talk about his future plans to pursue becoming an electrician and describe the kind of lifestyle he’d like to develop in the future.

Day 3 - Maunganui Bluff to Hukatere

Woke this morning feeling a heap better. Thank goodness last night wasn’t the start of a virus or gastro of some kind.

Once packed and a feed in our puku we set of once again along ninety mile beach. 

Cloud cover kept us comfortable and we got into the rhythm of the walk.

We followed a forest road after the 30k mark. In behind the sand dunes we passed horses grazing. Hukatere campsite greeted us. Lucia met us at the reception. She was on a working holiday from the Czech Republic. She was a piano tutor. 

We set up tent and met Gabby the owner of the campground. She had a German accent and wore bright pink rimmed glasses. She was kind yet frank about things. She asked if we could help lift a fridge she had bought, into the main lodge. We helped out and she allowed us a free drink from the kitchen fridge. That ginger beer tasted the best!

I played the piano on the lodge veranda. Lucia played a piece out of Game of Thrones.

I was also asked by Gabby if I play guitar. ‘Sure do’. She passed me a fender acoustic and I played a few Bryan Adams tunes.

All is good on the Trail.

Day 2 - Twilight to Maunganui Bluff

Only 20 mosquitoes shared the tent last night. They didn’t seem overly hungry though.

It wasn’t long before we were packed up and away at 9am. The morning heat beginning to rise. 

Over the headland and what lay before us was the expanse of 90 mile beach.

Steep steps led down to the northern end of 90 mile beach. Has a chat with some workers who were building a new stop over point with its own kaitiaki (guardian).

The beach was broad and beautiful. The breeze out our backs. Twenty eight kilometres later we arrived at Maunganui Bluff campsite. A cold shower and tent set up.

Sadly I started feeling quite ill and nauseous. Had the life straw not taken the bad bacteria out of the stream water drunk during the day?

I drank heaps of water and realised I had not been to the toilet at all during the day. Dehydration and heatstroke.

By 10 pm I was starting to feel better. Noodles in a cup.

Day 1 - Te Araroa Begins

A special time spent departing from the Cape Reinga lighthouse. Sandie placed a pounamu around my neck that the family had been instilling their wishes into. A fish hook shaped pounamu for determination, perseverance and links with the ocean. A moving moment for me.

Pics showing the 12 km walk to Twilight Bay campsite. Departed 6.50pm - arrived 10pm.

Hit Auckland

Karl has found the last stop for McD's not for food though... I'm sure Karl will find as many toilet stops along the way

3,2,1 Heading Off

About to depart from home for the far north.

Registration is through!

Great to have both of us registered for the TA. Not quite sure what I’ll do with the triangle sticker :) Watch this space!

River Crossing Training

 New Zealand has dangerous rivers. You need to know what to do to cross them safely.

So, a little training goes a long way.

Karl and I spent a full Saturday with Outdoor Training NZ in the Karangahake Gorge learning the basics.

Ask yourself these 4 questions...

1. Do I need to cross?  

There may be a suitable bridge not too far away (check your topographical map).

2. Is it safe to cross?

Identify hazards, such as trees downstream that might trap you and other debris.

Throw a stick into the flow of the stream. If it is moving faster than you can walk and is above your knee in depth .

3. Where can we cross?

Slow moving part of the stream, safe depth and a suitable 'out point' on the opposite side.

4. How will we cross?

Linked position between pack and each others backs. Use of a pole to make a third leg upstream. (see photos).

There is plenty more that could be written here. We are much wiser thanks to this training day.