Day 29 - Ngāruawāhia to Hamilton

 The final day in this segment of the journey down New Zealand. Destination - Kirikiriroa (Hamilton).

Today we were joined by Brian Hampton as our esteemed guide and trail singer.

We began once again from our Ngāruawāhia spot of 749 kilometres down the Te Araroa Trail. Sidenote here: we are using the Te Araroa Trail for the core of our walking down NZ, however, will detour via other walking means if we wish to. 

The trail here is broad and concreted. It is named the Te Awa River Ride and begins in the north at Ngaruawahia, passes through Hamilton and concludes at Karapiro. A length of 65 kilometres. The Te Araroa “piggybacks” most of it as such. No doubt, in time to come, it will link completely with the southern Waikato travels right through to Taupo. Cycling is in all our futures, so prepare to get out there people!!

Onwards we tramped, enjoying the scenes and each others company. The phrase of the day ‘Aagh - shade!’ As the heat of the day started to take hold.

We saw ducks dabbling, cyclists speeding, boys bombing, and an eel escaping.

Brian provided some yummy lunch, which meant we didn’t need to catch the eel.

By mid afternoon our 21k was almost complete. Walking into the CBD was like stepping into another dimension. You were no longer roaming in natures tranquility. 

Sandie met us near the bus terminal. A warm grin and embrace. It had been a huge week.

We are home for a rest and planning day.

Until next time, stay safe, and thanks for reading :)

Day 28 - Huntly to Ngāruawāhia

 Who needs an alarm when you sleep beside roaming pūkekos?

A cooler start to the day as we travelled out of Huntly and along a side road. Within 6km we were starting the climb to the Hakarimata Range.

The sun started making itself known as we entered the bush edge. Agh - coolness is bliss.

One lookout spot provided views out over Huntly and Taupiri Mountain. The ridgeline had its moments with overgrown vegetation, roots and boggyness. In fact, the roots at times created their very own natural staircase. Nikau palms were in abundant clusters and were magnificent!

By 4pm we had reached the viewing tower. Spectacular views here! What a busy place though! Plenty of people coming up and down.

Down the steps we went, trying to keep our knees steady and allow ascenders past.

It was a welcome treat to relax beside the Waikato River with a chilled drink in hand. A 20 kilometre day with 11 kilometres of higher altitude tramping.

Sally arrived to collect and host us (aka Trail Angel). Such a supportive teaching colleague!! She arranged a meal of beautiful Chinese food. It was great to catch up with everyone.

Day 27 - Rangiriri to Huntly

 A lovely stay with Rosalie and Leo on their rural block that looks across to Lake Waikare. We were well fed, rested and watered, ready for the next challenge on the trail.

From Rangiriri Tavern we crossed the motorway bridge and began road walking south, parallel to the Waikato River. Dark clouds had loomed throughout the morning and now they let go. Jackets on and pack covers in place, we forged on. The droplets pounded the tarseal, making an intricate splash pattern.

We passed through the Huntly Golf Course. I’m Deserted of players. Puddles formed in all low lying areas. The greens struggling to absorb the falling rain.

Karl found a stray golf ball and began carrying it. 

We took a break under a tree, appreciating greatly the sandwiches and food Rosalie had passed to us that morning. 

At this stage, we were feeling the wetness reach our skin. It made for an uncomfortable walking action.

The rain began to ease as we approached the Huntly Power Station. It is the largest producer of power in the country. You couldn’t help but admire this enormous structure.

Across the bridge into Huntly township. We decided to use some wifi at KFC and back up devices. Karl had a mate, Ben Edward stop by for a catch up. 

As we strolled along Huntly’s Main Street, things were fairly quiet until a voice called out “Hey you two!” For a split moment you were hoping it was another’two’ being referred too. Then, “Hey Haddocks!”

It was Colin and Kieran Vette, calling from the other side of the road. They had been in Huntly visiting their new grandson and whanau. We had a some catch up time together, before bidding farewell and heading to Lake Hakanoa campsite. A peaceful spot with some interesting residential campers to hear stories from.

Day 26 - Mercer to Rangiriri

Linda and Graham farewelled us from the Mercer service centre.

Across the SH1 overbridge and up Skeet road, with views of the Waikato River and rolling farmland to the west.

The track is overgrown and difficult to navigate at times. Walking freely beside the highway barrier is the best option. The traffic zooms by, but you feel protected.

Past the Meremere power station. The Waikato River lazily flows by. 

A significant part of the walk was on top of  stop-banks used for flood protection.

Eventually Rangiriri settlement appeared beyond the main highway. The tavern a sanctuary, bustling with people. We received a few interesting looks as we strode in. Almost to say “What are you two doing walking with packs on in this heat?”

A refreshing drink and acknowledgement of the days 26k effort. It wasn’t long before my cousin Rosalie arrived to host us for the night.

Day 25 - Papakura to Mercer

 Mum delivered us back to Roselands in Papakura to the spot we departed from the previous day. It had been a nice catch up with mum who always went out of her way to get food into you. The feed of bacon and eggs for breakfast had been a treat.

As we strolled along Papakura streets I pointed out places of significance to Karl. Massey Park had featured greatly in my youth. Athletics each week. I had raced against Jonah Lomu here in a 100 metre sprint. This was well before his fame came as a rugby star and All Black.

We visited the cemetery where Karl’s great grandparents (Gert and Gummy) had a memorial plaque on the wall. Special moment.

Onwards through Drury and then the enormous development of Drury South. Huge industrial buildings and machinery working to change the landscape forever. Places I hunted for rabbits on that will never return to what they were.

Up and over the Bombay hills. Blazing sun and little wind. We stopped at Bombay school to refill our water bottles. School here would start in a few days. Teachers were inside classes doing their preparation.

Down Razorback Rd and across the motorway (SH1) over bridge. I recalled the time I had cycled down the Bombays. My speedo reaching 70kph and my concentration 100%. Now, the traffic is a never ending stream of speediness.

Pokeno lay out before us. Again farmland all consumed. The entire rooftop valley only reflecting shades of grey.

Beyond Pokeno we negotiated a one way tunnel beneath the road system and made our way just inside the road barrier all the way to the Mercer service centre. There waiting for us was my cousin Linda who would kindly transport us 6k up the Koheroa Rd to see and stay the night at Uncle Grahams.

It was great to connect and remember the times of deer stalking days.

Day 24 - Oruarangi Reserve to Papakura

 A 5am rise and shine to hitch a ride with Mark on his way to work at Mainfreight.

Before long the city lights were dazzling us with their early morning brilliance. The Auckland Harbour bridge providing us with an elevated view of a waking city.

Back to Oruarangi Reserve and a hearty farewell to Mark. Though short, it was so good to be able to connect with him once again.

Around a point of land well made and marked. Otuataua Stonefields we would later discover as being a historical reserve site. Everything here, rock, plant or otherwise, is protected. You could be liable for a 40k-100k fine. No thanks.

The next location of interest was Ihumatao. A significant site for Maori people, and indeed, all NZ. Protest and occupation by an activist group led by Pania Newton over a 3 year period has so far resulted in this area staying as is. It was so clear to see a divide. On one side of the road, industry and development. On the other, the land remaining as is. 

Auckland airport was a hive of activity. Planes jettting down the runway and launching into the sky like albatrosses. We paused to watch them at different vantage points.

Onwards through various green spaces. The botanical gardens south of Manukau (aka Auckland Botanical Gardens) included.

Eventually we reached Papakura. It had been a 29 kilometre journey for the day. 

Papakura is a familiar town having grown up in the Karaka area. I had attended Rosehill College as a teen and my first job was a teller at BNZ Papakura.

My mother met us at Roselands and after a feed of KFC as an early dinner, we headed out to spend the night at her place. Always a calm and peaceful spot overlooking Bottletop Bay.

Day 23 - Auckland CBD to Oruarangi Reserve

 Back on the trail!!

After a break back in Morrinsville (Karl attending the Raglan SoundSplash 3-day music festival) we travelled via the Te Huia train from Hamilton to Auckland. Sandie transported us across in time to catch the 6.05.

Once in Auckland the streets were alive with the 9am thrum of traffic and construction. All quietened as we threaded our way through the domain. The museum, a commanding presence on the hilltop ahead. 

An ascent of Mt Eden and the urban landscape lay out before us in panoramic view. The volcanic crater held no messages made from rocks like it used to. ‘No entry’ signs took care of that. It reminds me of the book by Maurice Gee called ‘Under the Mountain’. One of the twins throwing their stones into Mt Eden crater and one into Rangitoto. I may just have to read that book again. 

Before long we were walking through what used to be ACE = Auckland College of Education. A.k.a teachers college. Sadly, the University who took it over some years ago has now abandoned it and are looking for a buyer. Everything looked run down. But the memories of lectures and social times were still clear for me.

Next stop was Cornwall Park. Not a great deal has changed except, traffic doesn’t go up One Tree Hill any longer. More space for walkers etc.

Through Royal Oak and Mangere, then across the SH1 Motorway using a footbridge. Out to the fringe of the Manukau Harbour until we rested at Oruarangi Reserve. 

Here Mark collected us after his work at Mainfreight nearby. Another stay at the flat was much appreciated. Tomorrow we will have an early start and Mark will get us back to the same location.

Day 22 - Stillwater to Devonport

A start in the dark this morning. We were trekking by 6am along the foreshore.

We came across beautiful groves of nikau palms. Puriri trees that were twisted and ancient looking.

At the Okura estuary 4k on, there came the thrumming sound of a helicopter. It appeared to be the police helicopter and it was move slowly in and out the coastline. We figured it may have been looking for a capsized vessel along the coastline.

We followed sand flats out from a point of land to where the estuary narrowed. It was deemed the best crossing point. We timed our arrival right on low tide, 7.15am.

The deepest it got was mid thigh. We used my walking stick to slap the water in case any stingray were in our pathway. 40 metres of wading and we were across! It was a relief to be on the other side and able to continue.

Down the coastline we passed MERC the Marine Education and Recreation Centre. Last September we had a fantastic time here on camp with the seniors at Tatuanui School.

Rangitoto Island came into site. The Eastern bays becoming more and more populated. We rounded North Head. Cannons stood as testimony to potential threats of invasion during the war years. Then, behold the cityscape of downtown Auckland.

Our 32k day concluded with a sample of beverage at a Devonport pub.

Nothing tastes better than a brew well earned!

Day 21 - Wenderholm to Stillwater

Those pūkekos in the night!!! What a racket! Possibly the worst sleep so far.

Anyway, onwards to Couldrey House at Wenderholm. This was built by my great, great, great uncle Robert Graham in the mid 1850s.

Robert Graham was an entrepreneur and politician. If he’d kept it in the family, we may not have had to pay our camp fee!

Around the headland and across to Waiwera. 

We could hear machinery busy dismantling the once internationally known hot pool resort. Again, Robert Graham had developed this area in 1875 with bath houses and a hotel complex.

So sad to see its demise.

Onwards to, and through, Orewa. Still a busy township with cafes aplenty, parks and playgrounds on the foreshore alive with users.

Out of Orewa and along the East Coast Bays Rd. Past Snow Planet and then a left turn out to Stillwater. Once again we felt remote. Another 28k walking day.

A run-down campground, soon to be sold off and a dozen or so houses built in its place.

The camp caretaker Maxine, advised us on many things including when we would need to be crossing the Okura estuary tomorrow morning. Looks like a 5.30 am wake up time.

Day 20 - Kaipara Flats to Wenderholm

A hearty breakfast met us in the morning, thanks to our hosts the Bremners.

Mike delivered us back up Smyth Rd at the same point Mark had brought us off the trail the previous evening.

Final farewells and we were on the trot once again. Across the flats and then into the foothills of the Warkworth region. 

Yesterdays 32k trek had taken a toll on the body and we were both taking time to get back into the rhythm.

A lady stood at her driveway entrance and waved us down. Her name was Roma and she had been a ‘Trail Angel’ for the past 6 years.

She invited us to have a cold fizzy drink out of the heat of the day. We were able to top up our water too. She told us of how they had become trail angels and sometimes their property had hosted up to 18 TA trampers staying at the one time. 

Onwards over hills where the trail was clay. It began to rain. Within 10 minutes the track we were walking on was a stream. Soggy shoes. Yeck!

On arriving at Puhoi it was a chance to have a feed from the general store. Only 5, or so km to Wenderholm. We passed beneath state highway one and followed the old SH1 over and down to Wenderholm. 28k completed for the day.

The campground had plenty of space but was a little soggy underfoot. Ducks waddled and pūkekos strutted throughout the grounds.

Time for kai and wet feet to dry.

Day 19 Pakiri to Kaipara Flats

 An earlier start today knowing we had a big day ahead. 32 kilometres to cover with up and down altitude to 440m above sea level. The views from the bush edge were spectacular. It was beneficial to pause and get one’s breath back. The Tamahunga track was officially opened in 2001 by Sir Edmund Hillary. Some of the hills felt like Everest, one part having a rope attached to get you up and over large boulders.  One cheeky sign near the top read, “sweat looks good on you”.

Along the ridgeline, aiming to keep a steady pace and rest at regular intervals. What a boost to see eldest son Mark appear on the track. He had been in touch earlier in the day that he would meet us part way in and walk the remaining 5k back to his car. Then transport us to Bremners place, where we would stay the night.

Mark had a few Export citrus refreshments for us and a care package from Josh and girlfriend Chloe who had been holidaying in the north and passing through. 

The 3 of us chatted and listened to music and the 5k distance to the car melted away in no time.

Mike, Ro, Jack and Milly had a wonderful catch up. The food they had prepared for dinner was an amazing treat. Conversations flowed easily in into the late evening until finally the weariness of the huge day set in, and sleep was king.

Day 18 - Mangawhai Heads to Pakiri Beach

Amazing boardwalk out of town.

Wished Sharn all the best for her northbound section walk. She was a kiwi who had completed the Sth Island. 

We also connected with Kat from our home area of Karaka. Sandie had been her babysitter back in time. 

Back on the beach walk, once through a forestry section. A high end golf course hidden in the forestry. Beach walking - loving it!

Then up and over a headland. Popular swimming spot. As we topped the headland a horse trekking group of about 25 horses came on through.

The next 10k to Pakiri camp ground was beach walking. Possibly our biggest final beach walk for much of the Te Araroa, certainly for the east coast.

Karl tried walking in bare feet for a few kilometres, but this did his feet no favours. Before long we had to compede a hotspot before it blistered.

Just before Pakiri beach holiday park we crossed a river mid thigh deep. Boots completely saturated, we were thankful we hadn’t been walking all day like this.

Day 17 - Waipu to Mangawhai Heads

Glenise and Larry had been fantastic hosts.

Glenise is the deputy principal at Waipu School. She has completed many tramps (great walks status) over the years, including the Milford Track twice. Larry had cycled the length of NZ back in time. He now had an ebike which he really enjoys using. It was inspiring to hear their stories of the great outdoors.

Waipu is a lovely settlement with all its Scottish heritage on display throughout the town.

We talked with a couple outside Four Square while scoffing some ready made breakfast.aka steak and cheese pie!

The trail out of town was in parts a dedicated cycle trail which made for easier and safer walking.

By days end we had clocked up another 30k and arrived at the Mangawhai Heads campground by 5pm.

Day 15 - Ngunguru to Tidesong

A big thanks to Louise and her parents for allowing us to stay at their Ngunguru house.

Back on the trail and we had a huge day ahead. The trail had an alternative route that had to be followed. The problem was it was 20k further than the original closed trail. By days end we had trekked 40 km (largely roadtrail) to our hosts Ros and Hugh at “Tidesong”. What was lovely is that on greeting us, Ros asked if we’d like a cold beer. Our eyes bulged with delight and the answer was a hearty ‘yes please!’.

Ros and Hugh had grown up in the Waiuku area. They sold land there 40 years ago and bought 3 times the amount of land in the north. Once finishing sheep farming they had bought a lifestyle block on the edge of an inlet at Pataua South. 

We pitched our tent in the totara trees and settled in for the night.

Day 16 - Tidesong to Waipu

We farewelled Ros and Hugh from Tidesong about 8.30. Karl was trying to sort something out for me on my phone when the loose gravel slid from under his feet and he went down heavily on his left knee. Blood oozed from a couple of cuts below his knee. We did our best to clean the wound and place a dressing on it. 

The big thing will be to watch for any infection.

After 15k we arrived at Reotahi Bay. Here we crossed the Whangārei Harbour to a wharf at Marsden Point. This oil refinery had closed down  a couple of years ago. It had impressive sized tanks and chimneys.

Along the beach we trekked. Under a beautiful clear blue sky and a gentle breeze. 

Seven kilometres down the beach we cut inland to a Fresh Choice store and had a feed of fruit etc.

More road walking before heading out to the beach again and down past Uretiti DoC campground. Another 4km and we were glad to be heading roadside to Waipu. 

After another 40k day we arrived at Glenice and Larry’s place. This was nearing 8pm.

They warmly greeted us and supplied some very much appreciated quiche and salad for dinner. The conversations rolled easily about great walks of NZ, e-bike riding along bike trails, and motor homing adventures.

A comfy bed for the night!

Gratefulness is always close at hand when on the trail.

Day 14 - Whananaki to Ngunguru

The sun beams once again, making the waters sparkle like crystals as we cross the longest footbridge in the southern hemisphere at Whananaki.

As we round the point of land just beyond the southern side a small bach appears and sitting on the porch are two men. One is in what appears to be striped pyjamas. I take a second look and am quite sure my eyes are seeing someone whose face is familiar. “Is that you Mr Peters”? I call out. A smile breaks on the creased face of one of the men as he replies ‘Yes - it is’.

‘Well - good morning to ya!’ I call back.

He gives an appreciative look, however, at the same time one of ‘can I not get away and have some peace to myself’ kind of look.

Its not an everyday occurrence that you spot the Deputy Prime Minister of NZ. 

The coastline nooks and crannies were absolutely stunning for the next 5 kilometres. Places tucked in to the land loooking out to sea with their own private beaches. Paradises!

At days end we arrived in the village of Ngunguru. A solid 30+ kilometre walk for the day. 

We were so fortunate that a contact through Young Farmers days had a place we could stay. A lovely comfortable bed. Pizza from the local shop.

An area of NZ worth exploring further!

Day 13 - Freedom 306k to Whananaki Holiday Park

A friendly possum decided to tamper with our billy, pan and cups on the picnic table during the night. The odd kiwi screeched out also. I played a ‘you tube’ audio clip of a kiwi calling, just to see if it would cause a stir. It did.

Rain was falling at 6.30. My Uncle Graham has the rhyme - rain before seven, fine by eleven; rain after seven, rain all day. It stopped for us by 7.30, so the rhyme must be true.

Back on the trail. Weaving our way down through farmland 250m above sea level. Plenty of road walking before reaching Whananaki North Holiday Park. A tent site with tree shade. 

Our neighbouring family pulled in with a caravan and got talking. Dad was Daniel from Dargaville. (An example of alliteration for all my students back at Tatuanui School). We shared some of our experiences so far, and they were keen to listen.

A lovely swim in the pool, followed by some brilliant tasting burgers at the next door takeaway store.

A walk along the harbour to wear of the food (like we hadn’t walked enough!) and then soaked in the sunset.

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