Tuesday, 27 February 2024

Day 53 - Waikanae to Paraparaumu

 26 February 

After a late night last night from helping someone in need, we had a rather sluggish start to the day.

We decided to have a lightweight walking day of 8k with packs, followed by a 5k walk to town, ‘pack free’. It felt strange. The absence of pressure on your shoulders and feet. No hiking stick held in your hand. 

In Paraparaumu we visited Coastlands Kathmandu. Karl required a new drink nozzle as the current one was leaking like a sieve. As it is for most parts, the cost could have bought more than half an entire new camelbak. Lesson learnt not to bite on the nozzle!

The campground we stayed out called itself ‘resort’ in the title. However, it was hardly that. Anyhow, not all campgrounds are created equal. Every time we depart a place we have slept or rested we thank it for having us. A small way to show gratitude each day.

Last nights camp spot. Ka pai!
On the trail once again.
Board walk time…
An estuary crossing near the mouth of the Waikanae River.
Karl in his happy place at a campground!


Day 52 - Levin to Waikanae

 25 February 

Terrible weather in the night! The rain poured and the tent shook in gusty winds. 

As if yesterday hadn’t been big enough, today produced a 38k monster hike. Initially we were considering just to Ōtaki. However, the campsite would have made a sideways extra of 10k.

From The Levin campground we farewelled Kathy and Ivet once again. The weather had deteriorated and it wouldn’t be wise to enter the Tararua Range until it had passed. This was their intention. We decided to tally-ho onwards and aimed to hike to Waikanae.

This involved walking segments of State Highway 1. To be fair there were a couple of difficult components due to lack of space on overbridges, but we got through by showing perseverance and patience.

Our Waikanae arrival was in darkness. A quick feed from Countdown before it closed and then through the streets to a freedom camping reserve.

We didn’t expect to be approached by a lost and somewhat disorientated lady along a dimly lit street. After trying to problem solve things for her it was decided that we would get help from the police. Karl did a great job of the 111 call while I kept the lady chatting and reassured things we get sorted for her. All ended well. The police had 2 cars and 4 officers. We stayed on chatting with a couple of officers about our Te Araroa journey so far. 

By 11pm the tent was pitched at the reserve and our big day had concluded. A memorable one for sure.

A monster sculpture…
Weedsville… the ‘morning glory’ running rampant.
Contrasting skies on the road to Waikanae.
Reminded me of the Aotearoa song Ruru class sings.
Look how far we’ve come. Just 19k to Waikanae.
The expressway at Ōtaki.
Old State Highway 1.
Karl explores a new way to carry his pack.



Day 51 - Franks Shelter to Levin

 24 February 

Breakfast this morning consisted of weetbix and foraged blackberries. The ideal sweetest blackberry will fall from the vine with the lightest of touches. 

We farewelled Kathy and Ivet in the shelter and made our way along the forestry trail. Shortly we viewed a dam that no longer produced power but was holding plenty of water. Karl risked standing out on it.

A bush track cut away from the metal road and climbed steeply. We levelled out at just over 700m above sea level. A great view from the Horowhenua Lookout would have been had, but alas, a whiteout of mist and rain was it.

We passed through a gorge which dropped away sharply to the river. The bush was lush here and reminded me of the Kaimai Range near home (only less supplejack vines).

We emerged onto farmland, crossed the stream many times, and continued on a tarseal road leading to Levin. It had been a 30k walk for the day. We were glad to arrive at the Levin campground.

Lo and behold, who was there too? Kathy and Ivet. They had taken a forestry shortcut out of the valley and hitched a ride from the town of Shannon. We exchanged the days stories and then set up the tent ready for a blustery night of weather.


The disused dam.
Beautiful bush walking.
The view out of the Tararua Range. Sadly…none!
More bush trail…
Emerging farmland…
Cool tree roots. They looked like an octopus if you use your imagination!
The second pair of shoes get a chance to ‘do their stuff’
Levin after a 30k day.

Sunday, 25 February 2024

Day 50 Arapuke Forest to Franks Shelter (Tararua Ranges)

There’s something special about waking up to the burble of a stream near your tent. A primitive ‘human in nature’ feeling.

Today we found ourselves hauling uphill through lovely bush on a wide trail to start with. A sign marked the nominal site of ‘half way there’. 1500+km from the top of NZ, and the same to the bottom. Makes you want to sing the Bon Jovi anthem!

We pressed on, and were surprised to find a whare shelter with carved panels, including the Te Araroa emblem. This area is known as Moturimu, whereby an area of rimu were felled and milled. Now the dominant tree is pine.

After a cook up feed of soup and noodles, taking time to ponder the whare structure, we headed onwards along the forestry road. Bad mistake. We never checked direction and signage. Almost 2k Karl noticed we were well and truly off the trail. There was no way to correct this error as it was a dead end road. A 30 minute grumpy with ourselves return walk and we were back at the whare. A sign on a pole clearly pointed the way we should have gone. Mistakes.

We encountered a few narrow passes across slips. The drop from these a good 20 metres to the rocky river. Some were crumbly under your feet. You felt the small stones trying to roll. All you could do was to use any vegetation nearby to hold onto, and get past these difficult spots.Thankfully we did.

We stopped for a rest at a site to which James Burtton pioneered from 1908 - 1941. As the story transpires, James lived in the bush alone and worked on trails that created access to farmland. He constructed a swingbridge for access across a river. However, in the March of 1941 he fell 8 metres from the swingbridge and landed on rocks below. He broke his leg and had other internal injuries. He managed to get help 12 hours away and was hospitalised, only to pass away from his injuries. Sad, but true.

While Karl rested, I tried to capture close-up photos of nature. 

Onwards again. Then, just as you thought the valley trail would go on forever, a large silver tin shelter emerged.

Karl pushed on the shelter door. A rustle of sleeping bags and quietly spoken voices called out ‘hello’.

Kathy and Ivet were also southbound walkers. They were in ‘rest mode’ after their walk from Moturimu shelter this morning . We exchanged stories about how the trail had treated us so far. We left them to the shelter and pitched our tent on flat ground out the back. 

Before the days light faded completely, we foraged for nearby blackberries and placed them in a ziplock plastic bag, ready to go with our morning feed of Weetbix.

At days end we had walked 28k. Which included 4km of ‘mistake’ walking. May our sleep quality make up for it.

A wind turbine above the pines near our camp spot.
The first stream crossing of the day.
Bush trail… love it!
A view to a wind farm on the horizon.
Halfway through NZ!!!
A style that reminds us we are still heading towards Bluff.
A de-antlered stag watches us calmly from his paddock.
Forest meets bush.
Carving at Moturimu Whare.
Moturimu Whare. 8 km into the days walk.
My close up photography attempt of a dragonfly.
And striped bodied butterfly.
Karl at rest near James Burtton’s dwelling.
Another attempt at close up. A common copper butterfly, on a ragwort flower.



Saturday, 24 February 2024

Day 49 - Palmerston North to Arapuke Forest

We had a good chat the next morning with Tanner (Mattie’s flatmate). He is a personal trainer and enjoys golf. There is always plenty to talk about when it comes to golf!

It wasn’t long before we were back on the TA trail. We crossed a superb foot / cycling bridge. It digitally displayed how many people had passed across so far for the day. We were numbers 271 and 272 and it was barely 10am.

We weaved towards, and around, Massey University. There are amazing facilities here. Karl tried out the basketball court briefly. We passed an institute for sport and rugby. Someone was being interviewed on the field.

A segment of road walking came next. Painted white lines diminished, before tarseal became a dusty, narrow, winding road.

Just when you thought the road would continue forever, boom, the Arapuke Forest carpark came into sight. There was an impressive entranceway to a vast selection of mountain bike trails. Lots of vehicles held bike carriers. We relaxed under a shelter, did a cook up, and as evening approached, pitched the tent.

There’s something about camping by a stream too. It’s sound, a chuckle, that lolled us to sleep.

Mattie’s Palmy flat.
The counting bridge.
Arboretum near Massey University.
Road walking.
Arapuke Forest entrance.
Stream. Tent. Shelter.


Wednesday, 21 February 2024

Day 48 - Mt Lees to Palmerston North

 Aahh. Peace and tranquility pitched beside a row of agapanthus. With a clear blue day to begin.

A newly limestoned cycle trail was our pathway for the first 3k today. Always nice to be off any busy road.

Our lunchtime challenge was at Feilding. (Note the ‘I’ before ‘e’ spelling rule is out the window). Here we supermarket shopped to see if we could outdo the Subway foot long we had yesterday. We think we did ok!

After a town called Bunnythorpe, what did we come across? A bunny. 

It somehow injured itself from the fright it got as we climbed over a fence sty. We gave a cuddle before releasing it into a burrow under the blackberry bushes.

By evening we reached Palmy city square. We sat for a bit on a rather large sear before a surprise visit by Karl’s friend, Sara. She is starting vet training first year.

Our place to rest for the night: cousin Mattie’s place on Ferguson St.

Soon after leaving Mt Lees Reserve.
Our Subway making effort. Salami, ham, ranch slaw, avo and tomato.
A small segment of railroad walking.
On the road again…
Off the road again…
Rickety bridge.
There’s no coming back from the trail.
Little bunny Foo foo.
Karl in Wonderland.
Reconnecting with Sara.


Day 96 - Greenpoint to Bluff (Stirling Point signpost)

 18th April The final walking day is here! A beautiful blazing sunrise to begin. The wind was fierce throughout most of the night as we enjo...