Day 80 - Lake Pukaki to Twizel

 Last night the full moon was brightly beaming down from clear skies. Our spot off grid had served us well.

We followed the lakes edge along the Alps to Ocean cycle trail. Today we would cover 20k.

After crossing the dam that creates Lake Pukaki we walked through a picturesque pine tree cluster. Then across the Pukaki plains towards Twizel. Parachutes descended from the sky to where the aircraft terminal was.

Oh dear. No vacancy at the campground? Surely not. We started talking with the receptionist as to any available patch. We were TA walkers and didn’t require much. It was Easter of course and campground was packed. More persuasion …‘we’re kiwis’. Then, after further checks for available space, we were shown a nice flat spot not too far from the amenities. Grateful once again.

At the local supermarket we bought a bag of hot cross buns, enjoyed savouring the flavour, and the meaning they represent.

Our ‘off grid’ spot near the shore of Lake Pukaki.

Aoraki beyond Pukaki.

Lake Pukaki and Mt Cook in the distance.

Pinus radiata walk through. 

Clouds like giant paddle boards.

Good Friday! Air fried hot cross buns.

Day 79 - Tekapo to Lake Pukaki

 March 28th

After a day of R&R yesterday, we were somewhat ready for a big day ahead. Though the previous night had plenty of rain, the day off had been relatively fine. Today, it appeared changeable and began spitting as we ascended to the roadside out of Tekapo.

We followed a side road and it curved past a power station and then met a canal. It was time to put our rain jackets on. 400 metres down the trail, who realised they weren’t carrying their stick. Me! The walk of shame took a good 10 minutes.

As the trail crossed a section of state Highway 8 we had what we called a ‘shoulder break’.  Resting against our packs, an elderly gentleman approached and asked if we were allergic to peanuts. What he passed over was a snickers bar each. We thanked him and he was back to his car and driving off. There are surprises like this that catch you off guard. He knew. There are great people in the world who are kind and generous. Here was another reminder.

The Southern Alps appeared in the distance. Evaporating clouds exposing a snow coated range. The peaks looked as if they had been sprinkled with icing sugar. Eventually one peak appeared to dominate them all… Mt Cook (Aoraki - which in te reo means ‘cloud piercer’) and it was!

We passed a salmon farm. There were people fishing nearby, hoping to catch a salmon. One fisherman we spoke to said there had been a few caught earlier, but all in all it was a slow day. 

As we wound down to Lake Pukaki the weather once again took a turn for the worse. You could see sheets of rain dropping into the lake and heading our way. Eekk, it started hailing and quickly made our fingers numb and bare legs sting. Thankfully, it was short lived. Now we were wet and it was getting quite dark, our main aim was to find a flat and sheltered site for the night. 

As darkness closed in, we pitched amongst some large willows. A feed of pasta and deb spud filled the Billy first, and then our stomachs. Content and snug, it wasn’t long before sleep took us. A night under the watch of a full moon rising and our country’s highest mountain.

We had completed a solid 35k and would reach Twizel tomorrow.

Packs ready once again for the days walk.

How many rabbits can you find?

While sitting at a rest area a stranger passed us each one of these… 

The canals are clean and clear. Salmon farming is big business in the area.

A view to the Alps beside Lake Pukaki.

Bare and barren with bucket loads of bunnies!

Pukaki with rain clouds about to unleash.

Mt Cook,Aoraki, just on sunset. 

Day 78 - Mackenzie RV camp to Tekapo

Our tent survived the nights wind. Thankfully the trees did too! The cycle trail continues straight and true before hooking down into civilisation.

We enter Tekapo and admire the turquoise blue water. The historic bronze statue of the sheepdog and the stone church are getting a fair amount of attention from tourists.

The lake water level is low. The mountains beyond bare, brown and scarred. The place has a sense of tight control on buildings. It’s set aside for tourists to visit, enjoy, then leave again. 

The rabbit population is doing well. Five, eight, twelve and that’s just the ones out in the evening light. 

The moon creeps up over the ranges. I click a few pics. By 11pm there is the sound of raindrops on the tent. Here it comes…

Mackenzie basin with the Southern Alps in the distance.

The trail into Tekapo.

A couple from Minnesota USA offered to take our pic.

The famous bronze sheepdog memorial.

Church of the Good Shepherd.

Footbridge to Tekapo township.

The scene from the campground.

Karl interacting with the locals.

The moon on the rise over Lake Tekapo.

The weather isn’t looking great for the next 24hrs so tomorrow will be a rest day.

Day 77 - Fairlie to Mackenzie Waitaki Camp

March 25th

It was fair to say that Fairlie had treated us fairly well. The play on words had almost reached its expiry for how much we had slipped it into everyday phrases.

We thanked our camping spot. It’s become tradition to give a moments thought and gratitude to where you rested and recuperated for the night. 

We had been told to expect a queue at the Fairlie Bakehouse. It was true and correct. People were flocking and lining up loosely, but the speed of service was fast and coped effectively.

I devoured a bacon and salmon pie, which was mouth wateringly tasty. Karl munched a pork and apple and loved it. We shared half a steak cheese. If you’re ever in Fairlie the bakehouse is a ‘must do’ in my opinion.

On departing Fairlie we were pleasantly surprised to be on a cycle trail. Signage informed us that parts of this new cycle trail were constructed, and over the next 3 years, investment of 100k per year would bring it to completion. It is named the Central Southern cycle trail.

The physical challenge of today was crossing Burkes Pass. A strong headwind uphill made us celebrate when we arrived at the 709m Pass summit.

The Mackenzie Basin sprawled out in front of us. The landscape a blend of browns, tans and greys. Including a number of moving brown shapes - rabbits. The cloud effects spiral and change with sweeping patterns. So difficult to truly capture in a photograph, but worthwhile trying.

Our campsite for the night nestled amongst willow trees near the Mackenzie RV freedom spot. Thankfully we had the trees as the wind continued to rage late into the night. Another challenge is that we had run out of water. Hope of getting some from a nearby stream quickly evaporated; it was as dry as a bone.

Another 35k walking achievement was done for the day.

The only tent up in the campground.

We sampled Bacon and Salmon, Pork and Apple and a Steak and Cheese. Delicious taste and texture!

A steer off!

Crossing Burkes Pass. Not that safe to cross for everything.

Rain looming…

A fence made from skis.

Cloud effect 1

Cloud effect 2

Cloud effect 3

And another…

Say no more.

Day 76 - Gapes Valley Hall to Fairlie

By 9.30 we were packed up and on the trot. Mist hung around the hills and through the tops of trees that arched over the road like a tunnel. The colours of leaves are certainly on the change now. Traffic was hectic and seemed to be in bursts of 20 vehicles at a time. Many were associated with a rowing regatta that had featured at Twizel. Trailer loads of rowing boats zoomed by.

The valley opened out and we could hear the clear moaning and groaning of stags for the roar. Sometimes their grunts sounded like a devilish Santa doing a ‘ho, ho, ho’ The females made ‘meewing’ sounds as they cautiously moved about in their herds.

We called in at the Skipton animal farm for an ice-cream. A wander amongst the animals proved to be an interesting exercise. They were so tame and were happy to be patted.

 We reached Fairlie holiday park camp by 6.30 and pitched the tent in record time in order to make the Four Square before the 7pm closing time. A great feed of sausages and buns were on the menu. We were also fortunate enough to receive a donated pizza from another camper. Our lovely camp host even provided us with towels for our showers. Shout out to Fairlie Holiday Park!!

A distance walked today of 35k. Our feet are certainly feeling the days effort tonight.

Thank you camp spot behind the abandoned, spooky hall.

Into the great wide open…

The G.O.A.T.

Donkey time…

Deer oh deer. Time to give a little scratch.

Closing in…

Looks like a ford prefect van in need of TLC.

Fairlie at last! 35k complete!

Day 75 - Rangitata River to Gapes Valley Hall

We awaken to magpies doing there throaty calls this morning. A heavy dew dampens everything.

 It’s about starting slowly. Getting the feet to start the day takes time. Tender ankles. Raw toes. Tight calf muscles. The days start is slow.

A surprising find beneath the tent this morning is the shell of what looks like a chestnut. Let’s hope there are no holes in the floor of the tent! Autumn is certainly showing itself in the changing leaves.

We arrive in Geraldine just after midday. The ‘welcome to’ signs seem to be a whole lot earlier than the actual built up area. We found a solid feed of a wagon wheel bun at Fresh Choice.

The food needed digesting, and with it came a chill time for a couple of hours at a small picnic reserve in Geraldine.

 The pace of life here seems more relaxed. I noticed locals stopping and talking, really talking, no rush needed. Nice. I got talking with a local for a good half hour.

We departed Geraldine mid-afternoon. Since Karl found a four leafed clover roadside north of Turangi I had been on the lookout for my own. I would have scanned hundreds if not thousands of clover but not four leafed ones - until today! Just as I thought I was running out of time to find one, there one was!!

Our camp spot was behind a run down hall 11k out of Geraldine towards Fairlie. It had a water tank with a tap. Unfortunately, the nights feed of pasta took a tumble and only a quarter survived . Oops!

Found this spiked seed thingy under our tent this morning. Hope no damage done to anything.

Rest area people. Leaves look a little like Autumn.

Green stuff in a paddock…

Geraldine in sight

Four leafed clover for Daddio.

Karl’s own rave with a captivated audience.

Out the back of the Gapes Valley Hall.