Day 15 - Ngunguru to Tidesong

A big thanks to Louise and her parents for allowing us to stay at their Ngunguru house.

Back on the trail and we had a huge day ahead. The trail had an alternative route that had to be followed. The problem was it was 20k further than the original closed trail. By days end we had trekked 40 km (largely roadtrail) to our hosts Ros and Hugh at “Tidesong”. What was lovely is that on greeting us, Ros asked if we’d like a cold beer. Our eyes bulged with delight and the answer was a hearty ‘yes please!’.

Ros and Hugh had grown up in the Waiuku area. They sold land there 40 years ago and bought 3 times the amount of land in the north. Once finishing sheep farming they had bought a lifestyle block on the edge of an inlet at Pataua South. 

We pitched our tent in the totara trees and settled in for the night.

Day 16 - Tidesong to Waipu

We farewelled Ros and Hugh from Tidesong about 8.30. Karl was trying to sort something out for me on my phone when the loose gravel slid from under his feet and he went down heavily on his left knee. Blood oozed from a couple of cuts below his knee. We did our best to clean the wound and place a dressing on it. 

The big thing will be to watch for any infection.

After 15k we arrived at Reotahi Bay. Here we crossed the Whangārei Harbour to a wharf at Marsden Point. This oil refinery had closed down  a couple of years ago. It had impressive sized tanks and chimneys.

Along the beach we trekked. Under a beautiful clear blue sky and a gentle breeze. 

Seven kilometres down the beach we cut inland to a Fresh Choice store and had a feed of fruit etc.

More road walking before heading out to the beach again and down past Uretiti DoC campground. Another 4km and we were glad to be heading roadside to Waipu. 

After another 40k day we arrived at Glenice and Larry’s place. This was nearing 8pm.

They warmly greeted us and supplied some very much appreciated quiche and salad for dinner. The conversations rolled easily about great walks of NZ, e-bike riding along bike trails, and motor homing adventures.

A comfy bed for the night!

Gratefulness is always close at hand when on the trail.

Day 14 - Whananaki to Ngunguru

The sun beams once again, making the waters sparkle like crystals as we cross the longest footbridge in the southern hemisphere at Whananaki.

As we round the point of land just beyond the southern side a small bach appears and sitting on the porch are two men. One is in what appears to be striped pyjamas. I take a second look and am quite sure my eyes are seeing someone whose face is familiar. “Is that you Mr Peters”? I call out. A smile breaks on the creased face of one of the men as he replies ‘Yes - it is’.

‘Well - good morning to ya!’ I call back.

He gives an appreciative look, however, at the same time one of ‘can I not get away and have some peace to myself’ kind of look.

Its not an everyday occurrence that you spot the Deputy Prime Minister of NZ. 

The coastline nooks and crannies were absolutely stunning for the next 5 kilometres. Places tucked in to the land loooking out to sea with their own private beaches. Paradises!

At days end we arrived in the village of Ngunguru. A solid 30+ kilometre walk for the day. 

We were so fortunate that a contact through Young Farmers days had a place we could stay. A lovely comfortable bed. Pizza from the local shop.

An area of NZ worth exploring further!

Day 13 - Freedom 306k to Whananaki Holiday Park

A friendly possum decided to tamper with our billy, pan and cups on the picnic table during the night. The odd kiwi screeched out also. I played a ‘you tube’ audio clip of a kiwi calling, just to see if it would cause a stir. It did.

Rain was falling at 6.30. My Uncle Graham has the rhyme - rain before seven, fine by eleven; rain after seven, rain all day. It stopped for us by 7.30, so the rhyme must be true.

Back on the trail. Weaving our way down through farmland 250m above sea level. Plenty of road walking before reaching Whananaki North Holiday Park. A tent site with tree shade. 

Our neighbouring family pulled in with a caravan and got talking. Dad was Daniel from Dargaville. (An example of alliteration for all my students back at Tatuanui School). We shared some of our experiences so far, and they were keen to listen.

A lovely swim in the pool, followed by some brilliant tasting burgers at the next door takeaway store.

A walk along the harbour to wear of the food (like we hadn’t walked enough!) and then soaked in the sunset.

Thanks for reading. If you post a comment, please write your name. Otherwise, there’s a lot of people named Anony Mous.

Day 12 - Russell Rd to 306km freedom spot

Back on the trail people. 

Its hard to leave such a paradise. Camping by a stream spins its own magic.

We passed by Whangaruru School. 

Signs warned if you happened to be a dog. Don’t dress up as one! (See pic).

Today would see us walk a somewhat lesser distance of 19km. Not to be dissed, but it had its elevation challenges, and the section of trail that crossed ‘The High Chaperelle’ made your tongue stick out and your chest heave!

The Helena Bay ridge track was the main feature of the day. Again, some beautiful examples of kauri. Tui and Kereru birds featured along the way. (You’d love seeing them Mrs Hampton and Mrs Vester).

Awesome new marae on the trail.

Sad to see so much roadside rubbish. We even made a song up for green bottles on the roadside.

We camped at a freedom spot which thankfully had a small tank of water.

Water is the best asset you can have I reckon.

Day 11 - Paihia to 2999 Russell Rd

Greetings all.

Paihia is a beautiful place to wake up to. 

A cruise ship had pulled into the bay. It made other boats look like toys. Once we had tickets we boarded the Bay Balle vessel and headed across to Russell.

This quaint historic settlement was once the capital of NZ. It was also labelled at one point as the ‘Hell hole of the Pacific’. Hard to believe now!

Once on the road out of Russell we encountered a boardwalk over a mangrove bay. We then headed along a forestry road with native trees in abundance. It was lush and stunning. Nikau palms were lining the roadside in patches. They reminded me of Venetian blinds with their swordlike leaf structure.

A slight navigational miscalculation on my part and we had to work a total of 34 km for the day. 

The reward was to camp beside a tranquil river with mature totara trees shielding our tent from high above. Flowering hydrangeas grew alongside the riverbank.

Tammy was our host. A long, but rewarding day in the end.

Day 10 - A re-start from Kerikeri.

Our adventure of walking the length of NZ resumes after celebrating the New Year at home ( Karl at Whangamatā).

We also celebrated Brianna’s 21st birthday with a special family dinner in Hamilton.

A 3am wake-up with an Inter City bus departing from Hamilton at 4.20.

Fast forward 8 hours and we’re in Kerikeri once again.

Within 50 metres of walking with packs on we had a man pull up in a huge pink Cadillac asking if we were all good for accomodation in Kerikeri. Astounding to have such a generous offer so quickly.

Our destination of course - Paihia.

First things first though. Retrieve my trusty hiking stick from down at the Stone Store.

Low and behold, it was still propped up in a flax bush.

More road walking eventually turned into a forest walk - minus the forest. Most of it had been cut down for milling. Slash offcuts lay everywhere. The exposure to the sun here made you wish the trees were still growing.

The Bay of Islands came into site as we wound our way down into Waitangi. A beautiful site. Manicured golf course. The Treaty Grounds (closed now that it was after hours). The one lane bridge across to Waitangi settlement. A real sense of history and mana. Yes, the land here holds mana. You feel it. It makes you break into a waiata or chant verses from a haka you know.

Karl considered popping a manu off the bridge, however, we still had walking to do to reach the Peppertree backpackers in Paihia.

That evening we enjoyed a meal at the ‘Tipsy Oyster.’ The security guard got talking. He came from Te Kao in the far north. We explained our hikoi. Amazing how quickly you can make connections with people who are prepared to listen.