Day 64 - Island Gully Hut to Off Grid campsite

 We farewelled Lisa and wished her well on her cycle tour. The first challenge was crossing the ford in crocs and its freezing cold water temperature.

Four kilometres on we had reached the saddle. A steady grind uphill to just under 1400 metres elevation. The vastness keeps you in constant awe.

A vehicle slows down and winds down the window. Kaiapoi High School is branded on the side. A lady asks if we’d like a lift as far as Fowlers Hut. We explain the mantra of our trek. She is an outdoor education instructor assisting teachers with a group tramping a loop near Lake Tennyson. 

A few k’s down the road another SUV vehicle pulls to a stop. They have a paper bag with 2 apples and 2 nashi. It’s a delivery from our mates back at the toll gate. Bless them.

Soon after that the Kaiapoi HS van is back scooting past again. The window is down and a biscuit is on offer. We gladly accept.

We could have stayed at Fowlers historic hut but decided to press on. Ten kilometres further and there is a sudden drop in temperature. In a matter of a minute it felt like 10 degrees lower. We decided it was time to find a camp spot. Thankfully, we found a location that provided shelter from the bitter wind. 

A food cook up and that was us for the day.

The hut 

A rainbow over Rainbow Rd.

The saddle at 1370 metres above sea level.

Posers…

The descent….

Moody skies build…

Sandstorm mode…

Historic Fowlers Hut. Cooked up a feed inside.

The temperature drops 10 degrees in a matter of 2 minutes. Time to seek out a camping spot.

Day 63 - Rainbow Rd to Island Gully Hut

 Mike, Neil and Helen farewelled us from the toll gate. Neil had constructed a hearty breakfast of porridge and fruits earlier in the morning, so our energy levels were high. What a lovely connection we had formed in such a short time with these three.

Before long we heard the thrum of motorbike engines as we passed by Connors Creek. The hut must have been a busy one last night. Six bikies on trail terrain machines weaved past us on their way onwards through the valley.

Further on we met David. He was cycling and had lived in the Nelson area for most of his life. This road was one he enjoyed cycling. David was 70. He was animated and we could have talked for far longer than we did. He supplied us with a couple of muesli bars as he reckoned we would need them more than he would.

Further on a 4x4 vehicle slowed and stopped beside us. A man asked if we were the father and son walking NZ. He passed us a paper bag with oranges inside. They were from our lovely toll gate angels. What a boost for morning tea!

I thought of something to send back the toll gate. It was a small blue further from the top of my mana stick. Helen had admired it. So when a couple of blokes going north stopped for a chat I asked them if they wouldn’t mind delivering it for me. No problem.

After a segment through a narrow valley we were reaching an altitude of 1100 metres. We had passed through an entry point to Molesworth Station. Eventually we arrived in the late afternoon to Island Gully Hut. It was set beautifully overlooking the craggy mountains to the northwest. 

We were the only ones at the hut for the first hour. Then a cyclist arrived. Her name was Lisa. She was from the East End of London and was touring NZ making her own trail linking journey. She mentioned that the feather we had sent back got delivered. Neil wanted to know where his one was. Such a funny fella.

It had been a day of feeling remote and small in such a vast landscape. Yet connected with so many people, all exploring the outdoors.

The potbelly stove kept the hut cosy all night. The mattress thickness was a little lean and the furry creature scuttling in the roof didn’t make for the easiest sleep.

From left: me, Neil, Karl, Helen, Mike.

Near Connors Creek.

Love this pic.

Oh gee.

We met David. A hard case, cycling and enviro enthusiast. Cheeso!

A narrow pass.

Trotting on…

Entry point to the largest farm in NZ. All 87,000 hectares worth.

The azure sky beyond…

Island Gully Hut, at last.

Day 62 - St Arnaud to Rainbow Road Toll Gate

 The day started with a feed from a stall supporting the Rotoiti School at the powerboat event. Funds raised from this allow the students to ski once a week throughout the season at the Rainbow Skifield. Some boat engines were just warming up as we headed up the road to the grocery store. Stocking up here was expensive! After much contemplating we figured we had enough to last at least 4 days. 

We decided we would take the Rainbow Road through to Hanmer Springs. This was a 116k route that ran parallel to the TA trail. 

The tarseal eventually gave way to gravel. We admired the distinctive black beech trees. It is now Karl’s favourite forest type. A number of motorcyclists came past. A few 4x4 vehicles bounced along the road also. 

We spotted an interesting running animal up ahead. It turned out to be a stoat carrying half a rat. There is an ongoing trapping regime in the area to keep these predators under control.

A military vehicle passed by. Soldiers in khaki uniforms were strolling through the long grass. They carried weapons. A group of 15 others were 100 metres further on. This area is a designated military training zone. We went into our own military march, using our walking sticks as if they were guns. Beyond the soldiers the road twisted and climber gradually. What was that on the road edge in the grass? My eyes spotted a 25 round clip magazine lying on its side. It had 4 shells in it. On closer inspection of these, I identified them as blank rounds. A kilometre later we met up with another group of Territorials having a debrief with their leader. I held up the clip and asked was anyone needing this? One soldier, with smeared camo colours across his face, looked with bulging eyes. He retrieved it quickly from me with a ‘thanks mate!’. It was tossed at the leaders feet. Someone was doing extra press ups!

It was getting on in the day. I figure in dark clothing came over to meet us. Conversation came easily and Neil was a member of the toll gate crew up ahead at the Rainbow Road Homestead. He was aware that Connors Hut ( a couple of km further) was full and that we could stay at the guesthouse. A 36k effort for the day. 

We shortly met Mike at the toll gate(the Rainbow Road Head superintendent) and his daughter Helen. Mike was an octogenarian, who had a lovely way with words and wit to match. We were fed bacon and egg pie, juicy tomato with seasoning, and sliced cucumber. Dessert too! Conversation rolled easily into the evening on the sofa near a beautifully large open fire. Watching the flames wrap around the logs and stare at the glowing embers is always special. We felt so blessed to be hosted by these people. 

Our DoC spot at Kerr Bay campsite.

South Island cattle can read signs telling them what to do - amazing!

Ranger?

When no name can be thought of…

Military Area.

The vastness of it all…

Spot the spelling error…

The Wairau River.

The fireplace in the Rainbow Road guesthouse, built in the late 1800’s.

Day 61 - Kowhai Point to St Arnaud

 Camping by the Wairau River - nice.

The broadening valley began to tighten the closer we came to St Arnaud. Some of the peaks seem scarred as if they’d been used by a cat as a scratching pole.

By days end a 24k walk with 9k back on the Te Araroa trail. We were hoping to see more signage that we were on it, but alas.

A Porter hire vehicle pulled over. It was the husband of Lucy from back at the Te Whare Ra winery. We had a handshake and brief chat before carrying on. So neat to keep the connections ‘alive’ with people.

St Arnaud had a number of trailers with high powered speedboats loaded on them, arriving at the lake. (Lake Rotoiti). The campground at Kerr Bay looked busy. As we knocked on the motorhome of the camp host, we were told by a white bearded gentleman in a kilt ‘no vacancies’. 

‘Surely not’. After hearing of our journey and what we were aiming to achieve, we negotiated with him a small area to pitch the tent. ‘Phew’. We were able to enjoy the wharf and scenery. Karl jumping from it a number of times.

The Billy is on for our favourite starter - soup!

Crossing the Wairau again.

Karl wanted to pop a manu - not advisable.

As the sign says…

No messing with this big boy!

A view towards the Richmond Ranges.

Not sure what made Arnaud a Saint but lovely place.

The famous wharf. No catching the eels!

Mt Robert is in the background to the right.

Refreshing!!

Aerial time back flip.

Day 59 - Renwick to Wairau Valley

 Farewell Watsons Way! Thanks Peter for the chats.

At Fresh Choice for a stock up on supplies as we are a few days until a grocery store. Lucy stopped to talk. She works for a local winery called Te Whare Ra. She described the journey we are doing as phenomenal. Conversation rolled easily. After farewells, we made our way along a street to take us onto Highway 63 (the long, largely straight road, to St Arnaud). Lucy pulls over to meet us kerbside again and invites us to call in at the winery just along the road. She would be happy to show us around if we had a spare hour. ‘For sure!’

In that hour or so we found out so many things about their wine making process. Too much to include in this blog post. We met owners, Jason and Anna, who were also both lovely people and asked questions of our journey. As Lucy walked us to the winery boundary on Highway 63, we felt so grateful that this opportunity to connect with others had happened. We decided that the Te Whare Ra winery now had a special place in our hearts and we would keep an eye out for its labelled bottle in the future.

The broad strips of grape growing land, either side of the highway, provided an easy walking trail. The valley was broad and we felt a sense of awe at the growing mountain regions either side.

We had our sights set on staying at the Wairau Valley tavern. Unfortunately, for us, we discovered it closed this particular day of the week. A couple pulled over and asked where we were headed and did we need a lift. The evening was closing in and they offered us a piece of flat ground at their farmlet a kilometre further on.

Jed and Mandy were so very welcoming. Jed was a fisherman based out of Nelson. He was month on, month off out at sea and had just returned a couple of days ago.

We set up the tent in their orchard and went inside for a chat which lasted well into the evening. Both of them had been trampers, so stories unfolded easily.

It had been a big day of connecting with people, while covering a solid 27 kilometres. 

Thanks for the stay Peter. Tenting beneath that plum tree.

Lucy to the left and Jason to the right. Anna our photographer. Loving seeing a ‘craft’ sized winery.

A lovely time connecting.

On the trot out of Renwick.

Grapes forever beneath southern skies…

Horsey time…

Evening approaches.

A book nook example. Shout out to all my teaching colleagues- more of these please. Love it!

A photo struggles to do justice…

Day 58 - Havelock to Renwick

 Yesterday we considered a zero walk day. The weather was blustery and bucketing down. The tent was difficult to take down in the conditions. We decided to transfer up to the Havelock Hotel and see out the day and night there. Glad we did. Lightning and thunder. Local rivers rose by a metre and reports from the hill crossing is there had been a number of washouts and slips. By evening we made the decision that we’d take Highway 6 to Renwick and then onto Highway 63 to reach St Arnaud. The Richmond Range would keep for another time. 

A deluge of rain. Our gear in packs, however, we still have the tent to take down.

By 9.20 on the morning of day 58 of walking, we headed out of Havelock under a mixed sky. The South Island roads are well made, and we usually had plenty of berm space to distance ourselves from traffic. The trickiest part was the bridge crossing the Wairau River. It spans at least 400 metres and has a narrow pedestrian path to negotiate.

We discovered a beautiful red apple tree roadside. The apples were crisp and sweet. The best apple forage we’d had. 

Along a fenceline there were pairs of shoes tidied for half a kilometre.Tramping boots, trainers, sports shoes, high heels etc. 

As we came into Renwick, grapevines adorned the paddocks in perfect parallel formation. Bunches of grapes hung ready for harvesting. There are numerous wineries in this area. Many of the wineries you see on labels at the supermarket. Booming cannons sounded out - these scared birds away that may otherwise help themselves to the grapes. Large fans towered above the grapevine rows. These are used to help prevent morning frosts settling and damaging the crops.

By evening we had a feed of burgers in us from the local, and our tent up at the Watsons Way Backpackers Lodge.

Havelock hills.

The footwear fence…

Best apples found on a roadside tree so far!

Approaching Renwick and the Wairau Valley.

Roadside flowers growing wild.

The Wairau River bridge - rather long eh!

Wineries everywhere.

Grapes by the bunchload!