Day 94 - Winton to Invercargill

One thing is for sure, farms grow pretty lush grass down this way! It wasn’t long before a herd of deer were looking our way. One in particular, not too deterred by our human presence.

The road-walking continues south of Winton, and it’s straight. Music from our devices suspended in our neck scarves, helps keep us upbeat. An app called ‘Map my Run’ also speaks out the km we’ve covered and our average pace. Something different to motivate our minds that we are progressing.

When an Invercargill sign comes into sight, we know it is a false sense we are there. The central campground according to Google maps is still a further 10k onwards.

The housing intensifies. A number of these, two stored, tiled with plastered exteriors. Some, have a sense of grandeur about them.

Finally, into the central campground we stride and confirm our arrival at the reception. Darkness is closing in and there’s a chill in the air, but very little wind. 

It felt a long 32k effort for the day. The thing is, it will be the last of our 30+ km days for walking NZ. In the South Island alone, we have had 20 days of walking further than 30 kilometres. Of those, 10 days were greater than 35 kilometres.

A white cat approaches in the half-light to oversee our tent pitching. Later we take note of a sign on every wall of the dining / kitchen area (see below). Obviously a cat of notoriety!

Dear oh deer.

It’s a sign!

To the Ruru class I teach, did you know there was a Ruru School?

Bluff is now on the radar!

Mighty buildings.

World Famous Invercargill- Burt Munro and the Fastest Indian.

Campground cat. Friendly as!

Explains it all…

Day 93 - Dipton to Winton

The only interruption to last nights settled sleep was a midnight scowl of a possum lurking nearby. It was probably wondering what a funny foreign dome shape was doing in its territory. 

By 8.30 we are packed and ready for the walk to Winton 30k away. The usual ritual continues by thanking the spot that has been our rest for the night. We check all tent pegs are bagged, and no escaped pieces of rubbish have been left in the environment. Only leave footprints. It’s another strong value we hold true to. In fact, there have been a number of times we have picked up litter left around rubbish bins.

The road curves and crosses back over the Ōreti River. The water level has dropped by half a metre since last night when we crossed. Still silty and brown coloured water flows fast.

The scenery in this area can be likened to the Waikato in many ways. The highway stretches on and we chip away at the kilometres.

By mid afternoon we enter the town of Winton. The Railway Hotel is our destination for tonight. There’s something special about staying in these time enduring buildings. We get settled in and tidied up for a special dinner with Trevor and Anne. They are down this way, staying with family in Drummond, so the coincidence of us passing through at this time was perfect. What a lovely time we had catching up. A hearty meal to keep us going too!

An off-grid spot sheltered and quiet.

These Southland sheep are everywhere!!

‘Boggy Burn’ - another stand out place name!

Skies = blue, grass = green.

Nice highway, The area reminds us of Morrinsville.

The Railway Hotel.

A lovely evening with Trevor and Anne at the Middle Pub in Winton.

Day 92 - Lumsden to Dipton

Yesterday was a rest day at the Lumsden campground. Rain was steady through the day. By early afternoon we took a walk to the local four square for food supplies. Back at camp we indulged in a cook up of sausages in bread and cans of spaghetti. That’s right. Spaghetti’s back on the menu colleagues (only when you don’t have to carry the can).

At the kitchen / dining area, we got talking to Patrick who was a cyclist based in Christchurch. He was counting his blessings that he hadn’t got himself stuck on the West Coast. He came through that way only a couple of days ago. There was also a family from Israel touring in a motorhome for a month. They had 3 children aged 15, 12 and 9. The wet weather was a ‘test’ claimed the mother. ‘You could walk down through Israel next,’ she said. ‘It’s only 1000 kilometres.’ Just a lot less water available because of the desert’ she added. 

Today, the road to Dipton was quieter than expected. Mainly due to road closures from the West Coast. It gave a chance to photograph some common objects that occur during our everyday walk.

Dipton has no campground. A park / reserve across on the eastern side of the Ōreti River became our ‘go to’. It allowed us to see the result of plenty of rain from the relative safety of a bridge. What was no doubt a sedate flowing river 2 days ago, was now a swift and raging torrent.

A 22km walking day, with light in the day to select a suitable tenting spot.

Our 2.2 x 3.6 cabin to see out the weatheris horriblis.

There seems to be quite a few of these white things in paddocks down this part of the country.

We’ve walked past a few of these over 92 days.

I call them ‘wake-up bumps’. They make a great noise when car tyres zoom over them.

Evidence of a wet 48 hours, but, nothing too serious.

A swollen, brown and swirling Oreti River.

Tonight’s tent pitching area.

Day 91 - Athol to Lumsden

Not a great start to the day. No sleep from 1am and being sick. Some sort of stomach bug had me. 

We really wanted to get to Lumsden before the weather turned extremely wet, so it was a case of forging on despite a churning stomach and lack of energy.

The trail went through a farm. A farmer approached in a mule type buggy. She asked what walk we were doing and went on to say that she finished the South Island section at Bluff about a month ago. Her name was Nicky. She would like to do the North Island in the future. We had a good chat about the Te Araroa trail and the people we had met. For her, the most memorable parts were the people she met on the walk. We would have to agree - people and their stories bring richness to the journey. 

Nicky had been in tourism prior to her TA experience. Now she was working in farming and loving the outdoors. She used the word ‘transformative’ as to what the trail had done for her. Karl had the best time patting one of the dogs on the back of the tray. We had a photo and said our farewells.

Rain began to fall, so it was jackets on time, and heads down walking. Karl kindly carried my part of the tent to help compensate my lack of energy. By early afternoon I felt ok enough to eat a few Weetbix and raisins.

We had booked a cabin at the Lumsden campground. How glad we were to reach it right on darkness. It had been a ‘dig deep’ day of 33km. Our last 3 days combined walking distance a staggering 106km. We would welcome a rest day or two, while the weather unleashed.

The rain became steadier into the night. The overall forecast for NZ was wet, wet, wet. The West Coast under a red rain warning and a predicted 750mm of H2O for the next 48 hours.

A local.

Nicky and ‘Squidge’ the dog.

The rain begins…

Metal cut markers for around the mountains.

My shoe wear…

Karl’s shoe wear…

Made it! A 33k day.

Time to stay put.

Day 90 - Kingston to Athol

The wind blew strongly for much of the night. Thankfully, the direction it came from stayed constant and two large bushy pine trees shielded our tent.

After a pie at the local store, we headed along the dedicated cycle trail that is named ‘around the mountains’. Its 186k route circumnavigates the Eyre mountains and ventures back to Queenstown. Apparently, there has been difficulties with passage across private land, so overall, it is still work in progress.

A lady walking the trail with her 6 week old baby stopped for a chat. She was interested to hear our journey. I asked about the growth of Kingston. She said there were plans for a 500 home subdivision in the near future, however,  infrastructure (especially water) was going to be a big requirement.

Two cyclists also stopped and took a moment to talk. They lived in Nelson and were taking time with family in Kingston. Again, they enjoyed hearing some of our adventures so far. The man mentioned the Kingston Flyer train now back in action. It steams down the rails, taking passengers for a ride each Sunday. 

The valley gradually broadens and opens out. Athol once was prospected for its gold but is now farming orientated. The around the mountains cycle trail has created a stop off point. The trout fishing in the area is also quite a feature.

At days end we are once again pitching the tent and resting tired muscles from a 37k walk. With a weather ‘bomb’ approaching NZ, we make plans to reach Lumsden tomorrow before it hits.

A sheltered spot from the raging wind last night.

The Kingston Flyer - black coloured train behind the fence. 

The weather is in a state of change.

Looking back and reflecting on how far we’ve come.

Cycle suspension bridge.

Metal railway spike. Relic of the past, but too heavy to bother carrying.

Day 89 - Queenstown to Kingston

Yesterday was a ‘Rest Day’. As in, no advancing our walking distance. Andy spoilt us by taking us touring in the Mustang. We went up Coronet Peak and then out to Glenorchy. The menu for lunch consisted of a ‘Fergburger’ from central Queenstown. Well worthwhile queuing up for! We farewelled Andy about 6pm and pitched the tent at the newest campground we’d been to in NZ. It was called ‘Driftaway’. 

Now for day 89…

Firstly some groceries from New World. There, ‘Izzy’ the cat sat greeting people for the day. It’s Garfield style attracting plenty of attention from customers. Karl went for a pat behind the ear, but Izzy just wanted to rest. A swatting paw and light scratch gave Karl a clear message.

Road walking was the recipe of the day. You just have to navigate your way as safely as you can. A climb up and over an area known as the Devil’s Staircase proved a challenge. But good weather, and stop/go roadworks, meant the traffic came in bursts, and we had quiet times with no vehicles.

Thanks Neville who stopped cycling for a 15 minute chat. We love these moments of connecting.

By days end we were nestled in trees at a freedom camping spot 6k before Kingston. Thankfully shielded by trees from strong winds off the lake. A big 36k day.

Last nights view across Queenstown. An Amazing new campground - ‘Driftaway’

Tenting at Frankton, suburb of Queenstown.

This is Izzy the cat. She sits outside New World supermarket to meet and greet the customers.

Jet boats please the thrill seekers.

Here is the entry point to the Remarkables ski field.

Remarkable.

Roadside snack time.

Lake Wakatipu on the road to Kingston.

A long lake edge…

View back towards Queenstown.

Sheltered and comfy.

Day - 88 Arrowtown to Queenstown

Thank you Arrowtown! Your technicolored environment is incredible!

It wasn’t long before we had rejoined the Te Araroa trail and found ourselves traversing the shoreline of Lake Hayes. As the water became still the reflections began to show through. A beautiful scene.

The historic bridge across the Shotover River gave us wonderful views. The water clear and flowing strongly.

At Frankton we were picked up by Andy. He is the son of Sally, a colleague back at Tatuanui School where I teach. Andy didn’t just pick us up in any car. His car is a Ford Mustang 5.0 GT. 

We returned to the accomodation for the night overlooking Lake Wakatipu. Tomorrow would be a rest and recuperate day.

In the evening we went into Queenstown and tried out a Mexican restaurant. Nice strong flavours!

Heading out of Arrowtown.

Reflections on Lake Hayes.

Trail beside Lake Hayes.

Bridge over the Shotover River.

Hello Frankton - next stop Queenstown.

Meeting Andy. Teaching colleague Sally’s son.

Karl checking out Andy’s Mustang.

View from deck. The lake is Wakatipu. The mountain range - The Remarkables’.